Tobago Cays (Jan 21-24)

The Tobago Cays are arguably one of the most ambitioned area for cruisers in the Lesser Antilles. The archipielago is made of four islets – anti clockwise starting North with Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Jamesby and Baradal – and a massive reef system to the West, facing nothing but the Atlantic Ocean. It is now a marine park, so no fishing, diving etc, and you will be levied a fee for anchoring (but it all goes to maintain the area). The Island was owned by the same French family that owned Mayreau, and then subsequently by  US based individuals. It became the property of St. Vincent only very recently, 1999.  

We had decided to arrive on a Saturday, as most charter boats need to return that day and free the anchorages.

The Cays are a stone throw away from Mayreau, but as we finally opted for the North pass, it meant a detour around Mayreau (as they would say in Tessin, we did the “giro dell’oca”), heading to the North tip of Mayreay, then East towards the pass (altogether, maybe 3 miles from Saline Bay).

For first timers as we are in this area, approaching the Cays with our draft (2.5m) needs attention. Eyeball navigation as they say, with Isa at the bow spotting the reefs and sand banks, sails down, motoring at 2-3kn. Once inside we decided not to enter the pass between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau, but rather use the Penguin channel and seek anchorage between Jamesby and Petit Bateau.

We managed to throw our hook behind Jamesby, on 5m of white sand. What is special here is that you get the full strength of the trade winds, you are effectively anchored in the middle of the ocean, but no waves because of the protection offered by the reefs (there is actually the possibility to anchor right by the reefs, know as World’s End).

The plan was to remain 3-4 nights, admire the nature, visit all the small islets by dinghy, swim with the turtles and windsurf. Turtles were top of the list, so we headed to Baradal and a buoyed area which allows you to snorkel without worrying about speeding dinghies or kites. What you do have to worry about are strong currents, as much as 2kn. We will soon post a few images & video. Actually, turtles are everywhere in the area, and often you are greeted by one early morning when you are sipping your coffee.

The other interesting discovery was that on at least two islands there is a population of Iguanas. People don’t know about it I guess, as otherwise the islands would be more visited (or we disembarked in blatant violation of some natural park rule, but I could not find any in this respect). Iguanas are larger than I had in mind, around 80cm -100cm, and not so shy if you move smoothly, so we got to observe them for extended periods and take some close ups. Someone within the crew suggested we should adopt one, not sure how that would’ve worked with the custom officials.

 Isa went for her by now routine round-up of the neighbourhood on her canary yellow kayak, white hat, sunglasses and all. As she was not returning after a while I started to look around and spotted the kayak at the back of an Italian flagged sailboat named “Youth”…there we go, gigolos again! So I dived and swam the distance Tarzan style to save Jane, but as I soon discovered she was enjoying Ginger water with her newly made friends….from Bellinzona (or “Belli” for friends, the capital of Canton Ticino is located 25km North of Lugano). We ended up in a long apero learning about each other, the kids by themselves on Keraban.  Youth and the crew of two (plus friends) left four years ago ….it seems yesterday they say…After two years in the Mediterranean, they spent last year in the Caribbean. Their boat and home is full of those incremental improvements that only an extended sailing period can deliver (the alternative is often decay), and the same goes for their attitude.  Contrary to us, they have no schedule (i.e. to return) and will rather continue their world discovery tour. In the near term, we will be crossing paths soon in Le Marin – Martinique, during our planned technical pit stop there around mid February (replace solar panel charge controller, replace Watt and Sea connector location). It puts our own experience into perspective, not diminishing it, but certainly confirming that this is only the tip of what it could be.

Next evening we had dinner together. We cooked pasta (what else), whilst our friends brought focaccia and falafel meat balls. Here again, I was relieved to learn that 6.30pm is standard time for dinner as most of us will fall in the arms of Morpheus anytime after 8pm. We were reciprocally good company then, as we lasted way past dodo time. They were also so kind to supply basic staples already missing in our depleted stocks: cooked ham (the kids devoured it immediately), eggs and butter.

I shall also mention the windsurfing here. 3 days in a row on the board, with the last one finally delivering long, fast planes and the first jibes. It was exhilarating, 18-20knots of wind testing my 5.7m2 sail, my arms and back, not to mention the beauty of it as you fly above shallow turquoise waters…and reefs. 3 hours of it and I was cooked but enthusiastic, already thinking about the next spot.

On the 4^th day we decided to leave for Clifton on Union Island, without good reasons other than finding a supermarket and fresh fruit and produce vendors. I would have languished in the Tobago Cays for another week, but then we have many islands to visit. We have already decided to skip Grenada (except the northernmost Island, Carriacou) such that we can spend more time in each of the other areas we are visiting. The sailing, which was not one as we motored, was short (2nm maybe) but entertaining, as this time we opted for the trickier South Pass….see you in Clifton, Union Island.