We left Rodney on 2/1. We wanted to check either of Marigot, Cochon or Soufriere (sorry for the missing accents), having read that finding a buoy is difficult (anchoring forbidden in this protected marine area). Quite soon we were facing the entrance to Marigot, and although it seemed crowded by the number of masts we could see, we made the attempt.
Over 1 mile offshore we were greeted by a couple of boat boys. We went by the books, yelling that we wanted to check and decide later. Not clear at that time whether they were offering to rent the moor officially, just help us catching one or else. Anyway, they proceeded parallel to us at very close distance.
In the Mediterranean I am not a fan of narrow passes, but no choice here. So, Isa went at the bow for a lookout, and we proceeded. Right ahead there was a free mooring and did not hesitate. This is one of the postcard coves, surrounded by a small beach and palm trees hanging out that I was evaluating more than once when planning the trip in Lugano, will we fit in it or not?
The boat boys where coming from Soufriere, around 10 miles south, to sell the volcano – mud bath – waterfall bundle tour (we later discovered that one of them actually works as a ranger for the SMMA marine protection authority in Soufriere), and were quickly pushed out by the local harbor master (there is a small harbor with a few slips).
Nevermind, shortly after we passed our line around the boy were visited by a number of other boat boys, each offering their wares, ranging from fruit, to bread and fish. Our working assumption by now is that you need to divide their initial offer by 4 to reach negotiation breaking point (exception is canned beer in Bequia – best offer was $2 per can – good that we increased our stock the last day before departing Tenerife). The gentler one was John the Fisherman, a 60 year old selling his daily catch of red snapper and Uwali. The next morning we were to have a nice chat on the beach, as he told us about a fisherman’s life on the island, with one of the kids hypnotized by the dark eyes and raucous voice.
Note – Remember to put your fenders in place. The boat boys, although in general good masters of their rudder, come on wooden craft and if there is any swell they will inevitably get in contact with their very hard fenders, if they placed any at all. I had my first chip (gents caring for cars know what I am talking about).
Soon after we were visiting the beach, a mixture of luxury resort and hanging out location for the Rastafarian locals. The kids spend a couple hours playing Tarzan, hanging from a rope attached to a palm tree (the undersigned now holds the record of 3 loops around the tree, to the despair of the younger). The attraction for the kids from the place was our set of paddle rackets and scuba masks, which they enjoyed while we stayed there.
In Marigot, the added bonus is that with the buoy fee (US30) you get to access the 5 star resort Marina Capella, with nice pools and (expensive) restaurant, but especially showers and laundry / drying delivered to the boat. So the kids forgot about the beach, and so did Isa….well, me too. It was since Tenerife that we did not have a shower without water restrictions.
That evening we met Aimone and Nina. A young Italian couple from Riccione, her working for a moto GP team and he a Dentist. They had rented a Pogo 8.50 and sailed the area for 2 weeks. Nice evening at the local bar, and potentially a sailing partner for the way back.
One general note here is that there is a consistent level of friendliness and likeminded people sailing in this area. This is an additional layer with the intrinsic friendliness of the sailing community in terms of helping / assisting. I guess part of it is we are really not on our territory, and there is a subconscious level of protection we seek from meeting and getting advice from Westerners. It is not at all an offensive comment, just that in St. Lucia (and certainly other areas) the enormous contrast of boats / luxury resorts coexisting with what we use to call at high school the third world can not escape you.
Anyway, not much to visit in Marigot without venturing in the thick forest, and after 2 nights we made a very short hop to Soufriere (the boys at Anse Cochon, to our disappointment, don’t seem to be there any longer). The view upon arrival is quite spectacular, with the 2 Pitons (domes of 600 and 800m circa).
“Some 40,000 years ago, the area was a volcano, 10 miles in diameter, before it erupted and collapsed on itself”
Again, we were greeted by 2 sets of boat boys, this time rather more aggressively as a discussion ensued between them as to who got us first. Ultimately Johnny, a 15 year old, was the one that the next day would show us the local attractions, namely the Soufriere volcano area. We picked a boy at the southern end of Soufriere.
Caution note on the SMMA buoys: pay attention when you depart as you run your mooring line through a loop in a line coming from the top of the buoy (and not a metal ring). Inevitably the next morning your line (my two lines actually) get tangled with the one from the buoy, and it took 3 dives at 5.30 in the morning to get the boat free, with the wind gusting and the ropes really tight, a half hour process as we did not wish to cut.
I went to the town for the clearing out process (as we intended to leave the next evening towards Bequia). At that point, frankly I was a bit negative about the place as we were constantly visited by pressing boat boys, the clearing out process was cumbersome as usual and the dinghy engine got caught twice into lines coming out of nowhere.
That first night we were picked by boat boy 1, Eran, who had lost the morning contest. He brought us over to the Hummingbird, a small resort / restaurant on the north side of the bay which we had picked from our pilot book. A convinced Rastafarian, Eran enjoyed showing the full potential of his 2 stroke 115 HP outboard, to the enthusiasm of kids and captain….Food was good (spicy seafood, fresh fish, etc, but as usual in any place not intrinsically local, expensive – more than in Switzerland for reference).
So, the next morning John and his elder brother Johnny picked us up in a Zodiac (they seem to prefer expensive AB, Italian made hard bottomed zodiacs here, many with the front straps missing), and at the dock we jumped into their uncle`s van for a ride to Soufriere. The Volcano is active, erupting every 200 years (and is now overdue by more than 50). The visit is informative and worth it, as you are told about the formation of the Island and a bit about the entire region`s volcanic history (we are now experts, after the Teide in Tenerife, Mont Pelee in Martinique and this one). Our next volcano visit will be by boat, when we pass above Kick`em Jenny on our way to Grenada, an underwater beast that last erupted in 2012 or so (the area actually is forbidden and the volcano monitored).
Next stop, the rest of the family opted for a mud bath, whereas I stayed dry (and clean).
The following waterfall visit was not worth it, at least coming from Switzerland where you get to see some much more vertical falls, although colder I guess. What was an entirely natural spot has been spoiled by an attempt to build some concrete “natural baths”, and the whole thing is a bit of a tourist trap. We should have hiked the Pitons instead, and spend time walking through the rain forest. Anyway, if I were to do it again, we would find a local bus and get a bit stricter on the boat boys. The ride was really expensive and the contact with the guides not really free flowing. They did not make an effort to show us anything outside the beaten tourist path in spite of us showing interest. Although they need to make a leaving out of tourism, they may be pushing some of the sailing tourism away.
In the afternoon we visited Soufriere town, which is unspoiled, including their local resto, epiceries and so on. It is only a 5 minute walk end to end and you get to notice the true life standards of the area once outside the tourist path.
The late afternoon was spent snorkeling, and then preparing the passage to Bequia, some 60 miles south.
It is great to get all these insights. Thanks. I am trying to following you on the map and through the vesselfinder. It makes one feel part of the experience. Enjoy all the learnings about the world!
Hello Andre. We need to update the map on the blog to show the crossing in detail and our current location. We are in Canouan now, and leaving for Mayreau tomorrow AM. We are typically about 1 week late with the blog, as we try to collect our views of the place, then select some meaningful pics and last, but not least, find a proper wifi connection.